Our favorite movie is Bruce Brown’s, The Endless Summer.
Yes you heard right. In 1966 we were young and we saw a film that documented two boys seeking simple perfection in a quasi-mystical sport. IMDB sums up, “Brown follows two young surfers around the world in search of the perfect wave, and ends up finding quite a few in addition to some colorful local characters.”
The film spoke to us, as it did to many others of a more idealistic age. The essence of surfing of course is the wave. And the lover of surfing no doubt wants to embark on the quest for the best wave. To experience the performance of the essence is to find the perfect wave.
Brown’s two surfer dudes found one in South Africa, see the video clip below.
We did not go out to emulate Brown’s surfers and travel the world in search of the perfect surfing wave. Oh yes — we did have a surf board and we did have a tan and we were agile and athletic and learned to surf. Truly, we hardly got beyond the less than perfect waves of the south shore of Long Island. And that was fun, and a way to pass the summer times, but not a quest of any sort.
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